Millerton, New York
Peace Near the Connecticut Border
There are some places in our lives that are like reincarnated souls on the road to Nirvana — many lives, one location. Millerton, New York is such a place. I first came to Millerton as an adolescent shipped off to sleepaway camp. We had just moved to a more rural town with dirt bike paths and no recreation center. Given the choice of swimming in the town's mudhole or sleeping in platform tents somewhere in Connecticut with a pool, a lake, and arts and crafts was a no-brainer.
On the drive up, my parents realized they had not packed a raincoat for me and pulled over in Millerton, a neighboring town to the camp. We immediately found our way to Saperstein's, which was a kind of clothing general store with anything a kid sent to camp needed. I loved it right away. Years later, when I was a counselor at the very same camp, we would walk to Millerton on our nights off to see movies in the town's beautiful and still existing movie theater. Another decade went by, and my own kids went to the very same camp and to Saperstein's for whatever I forgot to pack. When Rosie and I started dating, Millerton was one of our first road trips together.
Millerton’s Main Street celebrates Pride!
At this point you’re probably thinking, "Enough with memory lane. Why is Millerton a Dyke Drive?" Fair question. The thing about Millerton is that even back in the 70s, it was a quaint and cute town. And if there is one thing Queer Folx like, it is quaint and cute. Let's be honest. Sure, we loved the East Village with its punk clubs and Greenwich Village with its cool record stores and counterculture galore. Stonewall, hands down, is dear to each and every one of us.
But if we are really honest, in addition to the hipster, the off-the-beaten path, the cool, and the unusual, we love a bit of kitsch — like those dogs playing poker at the card table. Now don't get me wrong. Millerton is not kitsch. It has hipster food, hipster coffee houses, and hipster antiques, but it also has fishing gear and hardware stores and candy shops. It is kind of a beautiful fusion of the cool and the warm — like a hipster Santa Claus who is not creepy, but has a loving smile of tolerance, acceptance, and treats. Pride flags fly freely and Queer Folx are respected and included.
The Oakhurst Diner offers traditional as well as innovative diner fare, with indoor and outdoor dining available
What are my suggestions for a great outing in Millerton? First, if you can bring bikes, bring bikes. The Harlem Valley Rail Trail runs through downtown Millerton. If you head north toward Ancram, you will travel over gorgeous, wood bridges across marshes and an abundance of wildlife. If you cannot bring bikes, walk it. It will lift your spirits with its beauty. You can also ride about 11 miles south to the Wassaic Metro North train station (a great place for city travelers to start their ride).
After a bit of fresh air on the rail trail, head up Main Street to the Farmers Market at the Methodist Church if it is Saturday. There you will find healthy fruits, veggies, and sourdough breads, plus a multitude of sweet treats. The vibe is very friendly, and shopping local ensures that local does not go the way of the dinosaurs. Though Saperstein's is no longer located in the town, you will pass its old building when you walk to the Farmers Market. Ask a local if they know where it was and you are bound to hear a few interesting anecdotes about that great store.
Partake of the ice cream and other sweets at Candy-O’s or shop for vintage-style tees at the T-Shirt Farm
After a bit of strolling, head over to the Oakhurst Diner. It is near the rail trail in the center of town and is usually overflowing with people because the food is off-the-charts good. The Oakhurst Diner is kind of like the offspring between a Michelin Star Chef and a Fry Chef. There are the usual diner dishes — like pancakes, eggs, and burgers — but there are also banh mis, noodles, and high-end fare. Once you have had a proper meal, cross the street for some sweet treats at Candy-O's, and then head into the bookstore.
Oblong Books is an independent bookstore with a literary selection that would actually make Marcel Proust smile. With your new books in tow, head either up the street to Irving Farm New York Coffee for lattes, or down toward the rail trail to Harney and Sons for tea. And if any of these are not to your liking, do not fret. There are Chinese and Italian restaurants and so much more to sample — not to mention an amazing T-shirt store and antiques shops. When evening falls, relax at the movie theater. It is beautiful and has a selection of films ranging from the sublime to the pop.
Time spent browsing at Oblong Books is time well spent
The best part of all is that Millerton works for any budget. If you want to impress your guests with fine dining, you can. If you want a bit of the Kinks' “Low Budget,” it will work. If you are bringing children, there is plenty to do. If you are visiting with a romantic partner, it can be dreamy. If you just need a change of scenery, it will delight. In Millerton, you can walk hand in hand with your sweetie without looking over your shoulder. By the end of your visit, you will feel revitalized and refreshed. It is that pretty, that serene, and that delicious.
As I wrap up my ode to Millerton, I ask myself, "Have my many souls settled in Nirvana in Millerton?" I answer, "No." There are more incarnations before my final resting place of eternal peace. While I first met Millerton in the 70s as a homesick kid wondering what camp would bring, I ended up spending a happy summer in the neighboring town and came home with a brand-new raincoat. In the 80s, I walked the long trek to Millerton with friends at night to have camp counselor nights-out, trudging back to camp so glad that I did. In the early 2000s, I brought my kids up to attend the same camp and visited Millerton to stock up on supplies. And now, in the 2020s, I enjoy Millerton with Rosie and my goodness, do we have a good time. So many Millertons, so much joy! Maybe one day, we will bring our grandkids there and watch their amazement at all the lovely treats this charming town has.
Oh, Millerton, let the incarnations continue for — what do the kids say? — YOLO. But maybe we don't really live once. Maybe we live many times, even if it is in the same lifetime.
Liz